Mongolia - Un Climbed peak
16/08/21 - 29/08/21
Frequently asked questions
About your trip
QUEST FOR AN UNCLIMBED PEAK
The “Tavan Bogd” literally meaning “The Five Kings” are the five highest peaks of the Mongol Altai mountain range that dominates western Mongolia and extends beyond its boundaries into Russia.
Since Mongolia’s opening to the outside world 30 years ago and the advent of modern mountaineering, all of the “Five Kings” have been frequently climbed with 4373m Mt. Khuiten being the most popular peak. However, a few peaks which are not as readily accessible still remain unclimbed. One such unnamed mountain will be the aim of this expedition.
Landscapes in this pristine and wild corner of Mongolia are dominated by snow-clad peaks, extensive glaciers, fast mountain rivers and lush alpine pastures where large flocks of yaks, goats and sheep graze. The culture of herding nomads here is authentic and rich. The area is also known as a treasure trove of human history with many ancient burials and rock art to explore.
ITINERARY
DAY 1: Arrival to Ulaanbaatar
Upon arriving in Ulaanbaatar you will be met one of the Alexander Adventures guides and transferred to your hotel in the city center. (Dinner, hotel)
Day 2. Flight to Western Mongolia and drive to Tavan Bogd National park
Transfer to Ulaanbaatar airport for 2 hours flight to Ulgy town in Western Mongolia. Upon arrival meet with your support team and drive to Tavan Bogd NP. We first drive across mountainous desert and then along a V-shaped mountain valley before establishing our first camp. Given the wilderness camping style is quite comfortable: a mess tent, a toilet tent and a camp shower on request will be provided. (Breakfast, lunch, dinner, tent)
Day 3. Reach the road head at White river valley
We drive further and soon find ourselves traveling along a milky white river that winds along ancient moraine and rocky mountain bases at the bottom of an enormous V-shaped valley with snowmelt water running down from the ridge tops. The bumpy road eventually brings us to the roadhead beside a rumbling torrential river full of glacial silt. This is the White river. Its lush valley is the summer pastureland of Tuvan camel herders with whom we liaise to hire pack camels to deliver our camp and gear to the base camp the next day. (Breakfast, lunch, dinner, tent)
Day 4. Camel supported hike to base camp
Having loaded pack camels with camping equipment, climbing gear and food we hike upstream along the White river. It’s a gradual ascent on a single trail that runs past a few summer camps of Tuvan herders. A felt covered tent and a sheep pen is all that comprise their unpretentious belongings. A steep green slope on the opposite bank is spectacular. Our planned base camp is separated by the very White river that runs in a rock clad gorge all the way along our route. We hike until the end of the gorge and cross the river. The next goal will be finding a suitable spot for a base camp. The altitude will be around 2700m. (Breakfast, lunch, dinner, tent)
Day 5. Trek to high camp
5-6km trek to high camp with 2/3 of the route lying on edge of the Graneg glacier or along the top of a massive moraine just below a lateral ridge. Although short a total of 500m of climbing is expected and some crevasses need to be negotiated. We will aim to establish a high camp below the lateral ridge if possible, on a dry ground although finding a spot protected from possible rockfall may not be possible. (Breakfast, lunch, dinner, tent)
Day 6. Climbing route scouting
A possible route seems to be climbing further up the Graneg glacier edge and crossing it at its head towards a saddle between the unnamed peak and its neighbor on the right, a 3800m sharp peak. From the bottom of the saddle to its top is a 300m climb with a 100m elevation gain followed by a 500m ridge walk with a respective 150m ascent. But all of these needs to be checked. (Breakfast, lunch, dinner, tent)
Day 7. Ascent day. (Breakfast, lunch, dinner, tent)
Day 8. Leeway day. (Breakfast, lunch, dinner, tent)
Day 9. Leeway day. (Breakfast, lunch, dinner, tent)
Day 10. Return trek to base camp
Having summited the unnamed mountain, we pack up and trek back to base camp and enjoy a night on a dry ground. Local guides and pack camels will arrive this evening. (Breakfast, lunch, dinner, tent)
Day 11. Return trek to roadhead at White river
Once across the White river again we stroll downstream to the roadhead. This evening we can visit a Tuvan family most likely that of one of the camel drivers that had accompanied us during the previous day. Tuvans also known as Uriankhai is an ethnic group of Turkic origin that has historically been moving around southern Siberia. Traditionally these herding nomads practiced shamanism - a worship of ancestral and natural spirits but today their belief is a strong blend with Tibetan Buddhism. We use the invitation to learn of their way of life and to taste food and drinks offered by the unwritten local rules. (Breakfast, lunch, dinner, tent)
Day 12. Drive to Ulgy town
Getting back to Ulgy takes 7-8 hours of driving. Along the way we stop at a Kazakh family that practices an ancient craft of hunting with Golden Eagles. The once nearly forgotten tradition had been preserved by Mongolia's Kazakh minority and today it's being actively revived with even women trying their luck in training eagles. Actual hunting is done in winter but still you may learn about the craft and feel the weight of the massive birds by holding them on your arm. On arrival we settle in a seasonal accommodation comprised of Mongolian gers. A traditional Kazakh dinner accompanied by music and songs will be fitting final to your travels. (Breakfast, lunch, dinner, ger camp)
Day 13. Return flight to Ulaanbaatar, farewell dinner
After breakfast transfer to Ulgy airport for flight to Ulaanbaatar. On arrival transfer to your hotel. The rest of the day is at your own disposal. Nevertheless, you may consider doing more city visits or souvenir shopping as your guide will still be available on standby. At dinner we celebrate our adventure. (Breakfast, dinner, hotel)
Day 14. Departure
Transfer to airport for your return flight home. (Breakfast)
Price includes:
2 nights in a 3* hotel in Ulaanbaatar on twin share basis (BB)
1 night in a ger camp in Ulgy (twin shared)
Complete camping and cooking equipment for 10 nights
Mountain stoves, pots, pans and fuel to be used above base camp
Meals & drinking water
National park and border area permit fees
Overland transport: Russian 4*4 van(s) including gasoline
Airport transfers
Airfare Ulaanbaatar-Ulgy-Ulaanbaatar
English speaking guide / Medic
Pack animals and local guides
Per trip training day (UK)
Gopro footage
Alexander Adventures Technical Top (Mountain equipment)
Price excludes:
international flights
Visa (if needed)
Travel insurance
Technical climbing gear
Sleeping bags
Thermarests to be used above base camp
Excess baggage fee on local flights
Meals not indicated
Drinks
Tip for the local team
Mountain Photos
